Wines
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir needs a very cool climate and the best wines come from marginal areas. The Leabrook Estate vineyard harvests relatively late in the season and it is always nerve racking to decide the best time to pick; with the leaves yellowing in the autumn, rains threatening the quality of the crop, tell tale signs of ripening are studied. A number of factors are considered including colour changes of the grape pips, sugar and acid levels, and most importantly the taste test deciding the date of picking. Since Adelaide Hills fruit can gain great flavour intensity there is a fine line between perfect acid balance and fruit flavour. Overripe fruit can result in over extracted jammy flavours. I tend to pick sections of the vineyard in a number of stages, based on clonal variations in ripeness and a desire to have a blend of stages of ripeness.
Earlier picked grapes have greater finesse and aromatic qualities, while later picked grapes provide stronger fruit flavours and structure. The vines are always pruned hard in winter and trimmed during the summer to ensure low fruit yields per vine. This enhances the ripening and flavour of the fruit.
In the winery, the winemaking techniques vary according to the fruit characteristics and vintage conditions. Acid levels are checked and winemaking details determined as the fruit arrives. Generally the fruit is crushed with rollers open to give a high percentage of full berries to give uplifted fruit flavours. A percentage of full bunches are added according to the ripening season and quality of the stalks. The must is then sulphured and left to macerate prior to fermentation for as long as possible, sometimes up to five days when natural fermentation may start, or there is fear of oxidation. A Burgundian yeast culture is then added to the very small batches, usually less than a tonne each and the open fermenters are plunged several times a day for up to a week or more until fermentation is complete. Cooling plates and coils are used as soon as the temperature hits 32°C, and the cuvaison period is extended by dropping the temperature down to 24°C. Once fermentation is complete, the wine is softly pressed and allowed to settle for several days before going to barrel where it only receives one racking before assembling the final blend. If judged excessively tanic, egg fining is carried out while in cask and no sulphur adjustment is done until after malolactic fermentation that usually occurs naturally in the Spring. Each French Oak barrique is tasted and classified to assist the final blending prior to bottling. Only the very best corks are used for all Leabrook Estate wines. The final blend aims to produce an uplifted Pinot nose, weight on the palate with clean and elegant fruit flavours and a firm finish.